Showing posts with label do it yourself. Show all posts
Showing posts with label do it yourself. Show all posts

Nov 22, 2012

Single cut pattern for high heel pumps











Boat shoes model, in spite of its apparent simplicity is one of the complex shoes to make. The complexity is in precise of lines that are to be performed. It is in the crew neck, in the so-called cleavage, concentrated all the beauty of the shoes, which should emphasize the graceful curve of the foot. 



Therefore, in the construction of boats all the focus on finding beautiful deep cut on the last
. When I was in Italy, I took a course conducted by boots pattern teacher, who was nicknamed the King of boats. His name was Bruno. He was already retired, but he was still invited to all the shoe factories in the area where I went to school, to make pattern of a boat for them. This wonderful teacher showed us an interesting method for constructing single cut pattern pumps with high heels. It is quite difficult to do and requires a lot of experience. I want to show and explain to you the key point of this method. How from basic pattern, requiring dividing boat patterns on two parts (the seam on the inside of the boat), to make a single cut basic pattern.

Step by step guide "Single cut pattern  for high heel pumps"

Nov 10, 2012

Little Known Ways for Springing a Basic Pattern



Often making the correct pattern depends on how we attach it to the cardboard. It's so simple, but at the same time a critical point in the process of work on the basic pattern. But with the help of two simple cuts on patterns we can easily fix it. If we glued pattern below the desired angle, then we close it in the incision. If it turned out with a sharp angle, we will open it in the incision. To do this, you first need to find the lowest point in the pattern curve at the front of the last. It is located in the center of the intersection of a straight line drawn from the middle toe and the other a straight line drawn from the center of arc.

 From this point it is necessary to draw a straight line down and incise it to the middle. Then back down 2 mm and then  continue to the end of a cut in a straight line down. Thus, closing the incision at the top (or, opening, depending on the need), pattern angle is reduced, and opens at the bottom at the same time. The pattern is not deformed, and is easily corrected by using these two simple cuts. And you don't have to make a new pattern with a scotch tape.





Sep 24, 2012

Sketches


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                                   Sketches

First, my daughter got sick, what can you do, children garden is a pool of diseases , and after her I got sick. But, as they say, every cloud has a silver lining, I got a free week and I was able to work on the project. I draw and sketch, lying in bed, and then noticed that in all sketches, figures constantly present a decorating element that does not carry any function other than decoration. I wondered why I draw this, I do not like just decorative elements. I love it when they are an integral part of the whole pattern. That's why I drew so much and could not understand why they do not impress me. It was just pretty  pictures, but without any thought, empty. They did not inspired me, I just did not want to do them. So I stopped for a moment, trying to remember my original idea. I had to emphasize the natural flexibility of leather and maximal use those characteristic  in my shoe. In my last collection, where the hidden interior of the shoe, which is never seen, I put it all out. My bespoke shoes. This, in fact, the most important structural parts of footwear, made of thick leather. I had enough of the kind of glimmer and at the same time, rough skin, for me to make a simple cut, no tricks are necessary, it walks the walk. In the sole, I use the natural properties of the leather to give the flexibility for the total construction of the shoes. Therefore, wishing to create a closed shoes with no cords, I had to do something that emphasize the importance, flexibility of the sole, and at the same time was decorative element, shoes should be not only comfortable, but also beautiful.
Finally, I drew a sketch, and I liked it.

               

 Here, the top pattern is designed as a flexible lock attached to a pole-arc on the sole. Thus used the flexibility of the leather in the sole with a specially designed structure of the sole. This is what I was looking for. I hope that my calculations are correct, and I'll get exactly what I planned. I will discover this soon. I do not know if I can make this shoe for the next post but I'll try. Please subscribe to my Email list to get updates.
Thank you for reading.

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Aug 13, 2012

Success in business. Do what you know


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             Success in business. Do what you know    

If you ask me whether I see myself in 20 years only as shoes designer, then I'll say that not only that I would like to do, many other things related to design along the way will be just fine. For example, I would like also to create clothes. The thing is that my mom, like many other Soviet women in old days not being able to buy nice, quality clothes (it was not in the stores, as well as many other things), she sewed her entire wardrobe herself, and mine too. At first she designed all my clothes ,and at the age of 11 I think, I was inventing designs by myself, and my mother sewed them, tormented by my fault-finding. I remember how we quarreled with her about length of dresses, I always wanted to make shorter and narrower than my mother allowed me to. My mother sewed even my school uniform that I designed, for which I always got in trouble at the school. It had the same cinnamon-color with a black apron, but much shorter and was a completely in a different than all the other schoolgirls uniforms. I remember our long and grueling trips to the shops in search of suitable fabrics, buttons and other small things, because everything was so hard to get, until the Soviet Union collapsed and stores were flooded with goods from abroad. Since then I have drawn, perhaps, a few hundreds of clothing designs that my mother still holds, and was way ahead of fashion in those days ( I kid you not!). But, what happened, happened, and just recently I decided to try to make a collection of clothing, in addition to shoes, while not having any experience in tailoring and no technical knowledge.
 I decided to make this step two years ago in the happiest and at the same time a difficult moment for me, the birth of my beloved and wonderful daughter. Perhaps that is why I was not afraid of failure, the existence of my daughter inspires and has inspired me to any exploits! But I had a distant knowledge of the mass tailoring and I repeat, absolutely no technical knowledge. Instead of  taking the time to learn and practice, I ran into this thing without thinking, and as a consequence received a complete failure.  Although I asked my mom to come to my aid , just for the record, my parents live in Moscow and I am in Israel. Together we glued the printed patterns , and then cut out the fabrics. I was shifting between cutting fabrics and taking care of my daughter. I even caught my husband to work, we had to cut out fabric at night, because I came up with a  huge collection. That's me, I always need to have all at once, I always have to go big.
Anyway, because the patterns were all wrong and as a rocky in this business I hired a horrible, horrible tailor, and now I have a pile of cut up rolls of fabric, not just a fabric, a fabric I specially brought from Italy. Nice, right?
The conclusion is : engage only in the field that you know very well, and if you do not know and really want to, you have to spend time studying and only after much trial and error, act. This is the only positive lesson I learned from all this myself for the future. The following presented to your attention (the first time publicly) a few designs made by me in different years. What do you say?







                            

Write, and a good week to you!

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