Nov 22, 2012

Single cut pattern for high heel pumps

Boat shoes model, in spite of its apparent simplicity is one of the complex shoes to make. The complexity is in precise of lines that are to be performed. It is in the crew neck, in the so-called cleavage, concentrated all the beauty of the shoes, which should emphasize the graceful curve of the foot. 

Therefore, in the construction of boats all the focus on finding beautiful deep cut on the last
. When I was in Italy, I took a course conducted by boots pattern teacher, who was nicknamed the King of boats. His name was Bruno. He was already retired, but he was still invited to all the shoe factories in the area where I went to school, to make pattern of a boat for them. This wonderful teacher showed us an interesting method for constructing single cut pattern pumps with high heels. It is quite difficult to do and requires a lot of experience. I want to show and explain to you the key point of this method. How from basic pattern, requiring dividing boat patterns on two parts (the seam on the inside of the boat), to make a single cut basic pattern.

Step by step guide "Single cut pattern  for high heel pumps"

1) For this basic pattern, earlier prepared, placed on a piece of cardboard on a straight line drawn in advance. Find the lowest point of the neckline and mark it symmetrically on both sides of the pattern. In the video, the points A and A1. Transfer the first line pattern in front and to the points. Then, with an awl puncture point A, move the back of the pattern so that from the top of the heel to the center line on the cardboard was a distance of 4 mm, was to make extra for folding pattern in the top. Do the same with the inside of the pattern through the point A1. Gently combine the resulting new lines of the pattern. Bend the cardboard in half along the center line, cut the heel line and 1 mm at the beginning of sideline. This will avoid the error in transferring line in the heel. It turns out, as it should be symmetrical on the outside and inside of the pattern. Then cut along the lines of the rest of the pattern.

2) Transfer and cut a pattern lines on a sheet of A4 paper. In the two sides of the last in the most broad places make cuts, not reaching the edges of pattern, as shown in the video. This is in order to facilitate placing the paper pattern to last, as amended pattern of paper in a different way will not fit. Paper don't have the flexibility that the leather has, and these cuts give it flexibility. Glue pattern in the heel and gently crease it, and then extend it on the last. Then glue the bottom of the pattern in places slits, so you can draw the last borderline. When pulling the paper pattern to a last, it can snap above the neckline. Then simply glue the torn edges.

3) Then remove paper pattern from the last and, straightening, make a cardboard pattern exactly on the lines. For immobility, patterns can be nailed to the work mat. Move the last borderline line from paper pattern to a cardboard. It is in order to get the accuracy of the line, and that is why we did the paper pattern.

4) Since we have a new line of last and now we metered out to add drag. And on the outside and on the inside of the pattern to borderline on the last add 23 mm in the heel. In the middle of the arch add 20 mm, 18 mm at its widest point on the last, 15 mm in the fingers and 13 mm in the toe, if the last has rounded nose (the narrower nose of the last, add less). Since we have a pattern was already with these additives, they just need to be fixed, somewhere to add, and somewhere to cut.

5) Only at the end, for verification, it is necessary in the broad fields on the last (where there were cuts) to compare the new line with the original tightening torque line, of the basic pattern.
It is in general, the whole method of conversion, and all the other parts are made as usual, to the basic pattern. Another slight complication you may expect when pulling a single cut pattern on the last. Lot of folds form in the places where we made cuts, and you should try to remove them by pulling a piece of finished leather pumps. It also requires skill, but all comes with experience.
Good luck all!

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