Feb 2, 2013

How to make shoe pattern with folds

It is example for basing sandal with folds

 I want to show you how to make this kind of pattern. This is one of the existing methods.

Basic model
1) Tape adhesive tape on the shoe last , draw a sandal , cut and paste the  adhesive tape pattern on a piece of cardboard. Reference to the first 2 points in the previous post about the T Strap Sandals.

2) Add at the bottom 20 mm for lasting

3) In the heel at the point H retreat inwards 2mm and create a new strap line JK 

4) Cut out the pattern. Check the width of the strap, it should be the same throughout all her length . In my case, the width of the strap is 10 mm

5) Cut through notations for all sandal lines.

6) On a new piece of cardboard transfer all lines of sandal. 

7) Draw  straight lines across the point where the folds are indicated. Draw them so that they are visually divide the pattern evenly.
8) Décolleté is not symmetrical on the outer side and on the inner side of the sandal. Therefore it is necessary to construct it on the inner side raising décolleté at the lowest point D about 4 mm. There are several ways to construct décolleté of shoes (in this case sandals) on the inner side. In this tutorial I am constructing a new inner line using  cardboard middle pattern. Using her conduct the inner side line through the points A, D1, B.

9) According to the new inner line transfer all the other lines on the inner side using  the pattern of  the outer side.
10) Complete construction of strap on the inner side as well using an outer pattern.

11) cuts all the notations and cut out the pattern .

12) Before making pattern with folds, make sure that our basic pattern is built well and sitting good on the last. Therefore, I'll cut it out of paper or any other material (leather or leather substitute) and last it the shoe last.

13) Check how all the lines of the pattern looks  . Usually the difference between outer and inner side pattern is not only in the neckline, but in the sides as well. Note the line BT1. Point T and T1 should lie on the same line. This way the sandal looks nicer. Correct line BT1. and the last line of the fold EC.

14) Mark the edge line of shoe last.
15) Remove the paper pattern from the last and transfer all changes to the cardboard pattern. Adjust all adding for lasting (see the book "Full Pump shoes Guide").

Building pattern with folds from the basic pattern
1) From basic pattern transfer on paper all the lines of front detail. Because in my sandals width of the strip, which is attached to the front piece is 8 mm in the décolleté  then I add 7mm to the seam , so that the front detail edges will not go beyond the front of the strip. So from the line FAF1 I retreat 1 mm to get 7 mm.

2) Cut the received paper detail. Now incise all the folds lines, leaving not incised 2 mm below for lasting.

Incised lines, so that the folds reduced in place where sole attached and was not too thick.
Since I wanted to make a small folds 3mm wide, so each cuts through line I opened it the  6mm width  and glued with adhesive tape.

 Transfer the resulting pattern with folds on cardboard and cut through notations for folds lines, and adding to the seam.

3) The side piece is symmetrical on the outer and on the inner side of the pattern, so it is enough to move all the lines from the outer side of the pattern and make the folds on the same principle as we did with the front part. 

4) Before you make all the parts of sandals, it is necessary to check what folds pattern we achieved . To do this, cut it out of leather . folds on the front side of leather, and anoint glue on the back side. Glue them together so that they were in the same direction.

5) glued and stitch all the details. Pull on the shoe last and see how the pattern sits . If it requires correction, correct.

6) Make all the pattern details :
a) Upper leather
To the front and side parts of resulting pattern with folds add 4mm for folding.
To front strip in the décolleté, turning into the strap, from the basic pattern also add 4 mm for folding  . Principle of dividing the strap to parts is the same as in T Strap Sandals, see the previous post.
b) The lining is made of a basic pattern as usual (see previous post). Only to control the assembly of components it is necessary to identify their borders on the lining pattern .

Thank you and have a nice weekend.

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  1. Thank you so much for your awesome
    tutorials! they are really the best on the whole wide Internet on shoemaking!
    I am sure you could make a great book on shoemaking! Go for it, there are hardly good
    ones out there!!
    Cheers, Susanne Schmidt-Lübke

  2. Thank you for a GREAT comment. Book sounds so scary to me, so I prefer to call them guides for shoe-making. Taking it step by step, specially because it takes a lot of time to make those. New Guide/book on the way....
    Thank you again.

  3. you are fantastic i have been on the internet looking for ways to make shoes you are excellent.


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