Day 2: How to adopt your design to Golden points by bending some rules?

 

Knowing the gold points is surely makes your life as designer or shoemaker much easier but knowing them, memorizing them will not solve your problem unless you making the same boot over and over again. You must know how to use this knowledge, to create your own formulas, because each design that you may have will extend the possibilities that those points gives you, and you need to know how to fix it. One thing for sure, it comes with experience and creative approach, not to mention other aspects that are influence your design, like type and correctness of the last you use, type of leather, it could be too thick, to stretched, no stretched the best advice I can give you is, learn it, use it, make it your own.

Here are couple questions and answers that emerged from the book:

•  How to stay in the safe area (golden points) but exceed the classic last borders. (from chapter 2 , 4)

Visually divide the last into equal segments, so you will be able to work in the last proportions:

For example: Let's say I want to make asymmetric Channel shoes with geometric forms in the pattern. To do it I visually divided the last into 4 even segments, that are created by lines LM,KK1 ( middle of the last length), FC.

By creating volume in the heel( 2 segments- LM, KK1) I need to make this volume equal in other two segments KK1, CF according to the geometric forms of the pattern.

As you see, by doing this I work according to the rules of Golden points and I divide the last into proportional segments that are helping me to extend the boundaries of the last and in the same time staying in the last proportions. That's what I call bending the rules.

•  Selectively chose the gold points that you need to work with your design 

For example: In the classic model of Oxford as I explain her golden points in chapter two, the lacing begins at point C .But here is the trick, if I want to make side lacing (as in the drawing) I can move it to any point on the line CF1.

But you have to remember, the lowest point for functional lacing is point F1+/- 3mm, if according to your design you want the lacing to go all the way down, make a stopper at point F1 and from there it must be a decorative lacing. 

 How to bend the golden points?

Working according to Golden points doesn't mean you have to make the same classic shoe pattern over and over again, it's there to guide you.

Let's work with a pumps shoes pattern. Can I raise the décolleté line over the points H,F1 C, (that is our safe area of golden points) and the answer is simple! Yes you can, and let me explain how.

You can't touch those points, but you can adopt your last to your design and it will allow you to bend those rules.
To point H, on the last I add a leather supplement and so on in the segment TT1 and KK1, where T=1/2 of AC and K=1/2 of CB.

This way I expand the shoe last in the places where I want to extend the golden points to allow the foot smoothly enter the foot.
Important: On the line LM (as in Channel-chapter2) you need to lower the line of your design to line HF1 as it where the bone is.

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