6 Best Value Shoe Pattern Making Tips for 2014 that I Use Every day

Happy New Year Everybody! As I waked up early today after new year's celebrations I wanted to launch this year with very optimistic, happy start blog post to benefit all of my readers, In this post I will give away 6 best value Pattern Making Tips that I use in every shoe model that I do, and it helps me to avoid mistakes and saves my time like nothing else. But before we get to that, I want to take a minute to thank you all for the past year.

A lot happened in 2013 with this blog and this community, we definitely got bigger which is amazing in my opinion and what is more amazing and what I am personally thankful for is the support I get from you. I launched Shoemaking courses online 3 month ago, with no expectations what so ever and to see so many people joining the courses was just amazing, thank you all and I promise to keep the content in the highest level and help your growth and creativity.

Design Concept: Collect, Research & Develop

How long it have been? 2 months ? I know, I know I have a lot of explaining to do and I will, but first let me just say it's good to be back, how strange it may sound it's even exciting to type this post on my keyboard, a definite change for me in this couple of months.

I thank you all who emailed me, concerning my sudden disappearing, it's a great and warm feeling to know you care and it surely gave me a lot of strength to keep up with what I was doing. The reason for my disappearing is pretty simple, work a lot of work. I can't say it was not expected, I was willing to take orders and make this collection in a bigger scale but I was not ready for this and you know you are not ready, when there is just not enough hours in a day (and night). There is a bigger story to tell what and how it happened, but I learn my lesson and I even developed new and exciting techniques to help me work faster and more efficient and I didn't forget you. So, remember the book? Design book that I was writing about, just before all this? Well, I made a few serious changes and even added more  great content for your creative minds, like the points you have know  to create correct pattern from the first time.

The book is planned to be available here on my blog on June 15, so I will keep you posted.

How To Make Rihanna 2012 X Factor Shoes by Yourself

First of all I want to launch this post with announcement, that this is the most frustrated post I ever made. It took me 7 days. You will think that making the shoe itself or shooting the process was the problem, but no, it's something to do with Voodoo powers I'm 99 percent sure of it. The tutorial is a step by step video as always, but this time I made an effort and did the whole process, from designing the sandal to the finished item (yes I did).

So the tutorial is maybe the longest I ever made 2:15 hours, but it wasn't supposed to be a problem, and after the editing was finished, I uploaded them (2 parts) to YouTube. Although it was pretty fast the first time, and I was ready to publish it on the blog, then I noticed that my video is corrupted for some reason, just big black sequences in a middle of both parts. I checked the original footage but it was ok, so I uploaded again. It took me the whole day and in the end the upload crashed, It happened twice . 

Unfortunately it was not the end of it, after finally the both parts uploaded I checked them again to make sure that everything is right, but what you know, the end of the process was missing! I wanted to upload it again, but there was no movies to upload, yes you heard it right, it was gone. At that moment I was so close to quite the whole thing, but I couldn't, it just drove me insane. Well, it took me two more days, exporting the movie clips and uploading, but I did it. I don't know if there was some "Tech Voodoo" involved but It feels like forever making this one, so I hope you like it.          

So the story of making this tutorial is that my cuisine is a big fan of Rihanna. After she saw her on the X-factor in Alexander Wang shoes, she didn't stop bothering me with the request to make the same shoes for her. 

Finally I found time  to do it.Usually I don't like to do what has already been done by someone else, so I changed the design a little bit for well known reasons and to be honest doing Rihanna sandals was unexpected fun.

Why is it important to know how to make the classic model of shoes?

When I studied at the Art Academy in Jerusalem, I was very fond of classical drawing lessons, because I understood that in the future  for  me to be able to draw any of  my fantasy figure, I must first learn the basics. So, in whatever  you touch upon, in any field, you must first learn the basics of the subject, in which you would like to achieve perfection. At the shoe craftsmanship such a basis, in my opinion, is the study of all the classic shoe models based on which you can make any shoe.

So to be a designer that is not only "creates" and by that I mean "makes a pretty drawing on a paper", but also can really make any of his ideas, it is important to know the construction of the classic shoe models. While I personally have never made any classic model of shoes (in a his "clean definition") in my own collections, I have all my models designed only because my knowledge on how to structure classic models of shoes. Those  models as they are, in terms of design, don't interest me, but the knowledge of their design gives me the freedom to create. They, like the alphabet, for those who wish to be a writer.

How to make Penny Loafer shoes with tassels

1) As usual paste the adhesive tape on the last and draw your Penny Loafers with tassels on the same principle as we did with  loafers  in the book(Penny Loafers Full Guide). Only at the point D (reference to the book) from the tongue to the sideline make round transition. Tassels and leather laces visually must continue this transition.

How to make shoe pattern with folds

It is example for basing sandal with folds

 I want to show you how to make this kind of pattern. This is one of the existing methods.

Basic model

1) Tape adhesive tape on the shoe last , draw a sandal , cut and paste the  adhesive tape pattern on a piece of cardboard. Reference to the first 2 points in the previous post about the T Strap Sandals.

Single cut pattern for high heel pumps

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Boat shoes model, in spite of its apparent simplicity is one of the complex shoes to make. The complexity is in precise of lines that are to be performed. It is in the crew neck, in the so-called cleavage, concentrated all the beauty of the shoes, which should emphasize the graceful curve of the foot. 

Therefore, in the construction of boats all the focus on finding beautiful deep cut on the last

. When I was in Italy, I took a course conducted by boots pattern teacher, who was nicknamed the King of boats. His name was Bruno. He was already retired, but he was still invited to all the shoe factories in the area where I went to school, to make pattern of a boat for them. This wonderful teacher showed us an interesting method for constructing single cut pattern pumps with high heels. It is quite difficult to do and requires a lot of experience. I want to show and explain to you the key point of this method. How from basic pattern, requiring dividing boat patterns on two parts (the seam on the inside of the boat), to make a single cut basic pattern.

Step by step guide "Single cut pattern  for high heel pumps"

Little Known Ways for Springing a Basic Pattern

Often making the correct pattern depends on how we attach it to the cardboard. It's so simple, but at the same time a critical point in the process of work on the basic pattern. But with the help of two simple cuts on patterns we can easily fix it. If we glued pattern below the desired angle, then we close it in the incision. If it turned out with a sharp angle, we will open it in the incision. To do this, you first need to find the lowest point in the pattern curve at the front of the last. It is located in the center of the intersection of a straight line drawn from the middle toe and the other a straight line drawn from the center of arc.

 From this point it is necessary to draw a straight line down and incise it to the middle. Then back down 2 mm and then  continue to the end of a cut in a straight line down. Thus, closing the incision at the top (or, opening, depending on the need), pattern angle is reduced, and opens at the bottom at the same time. The pattern is not deformed, and is easily corrected by using these two simple cuts. And you don't have to make a new pattern with a scotch tape.

Best Effective Method in Shoe Making and Maria Mastori Jewelry

I have said many times that I wanted to make shoes as master shoemakers of the past, but that does not mean that I blindly follow the traditions of shoe making  on the contrary, sometimes I break them. I like to find a shorter and easier way to achieve the result, even if it is not accepted in the footwear techniques, because I always have effective approach for solving the problem, whether it be technical or stylistic.

 Effective means the best for me, for shoe design. If shoes are difficult to sew, that is, its execution takes a lot of time, but that is the way I see it this constructed, for me it effectively to sew how long it will take. Therefore, no matter what, I will always find effective, in my understanding, methods. For example, very often, when I want to quickly check something and I do not have a suitable insoles for shoes, I'm doing it out of the one I have at the moment. 
Maybe this is not quite correct way to make an insole, but it very quickly done and I don't have to wait till the next day to go and order it on the factory. So for me it is effective at that moment, means it is right. For those who are faced with a lack of appropriate insoles in the process, this is little tutorial that will fix the problem.