Today I want to show you a small tip, as to double a basic model, meaning, to merge outer and inner side of patterns in one point, so you can do it on any asymmetric shoes. First you need to do is to make correct basic model of the last, on which you wish to continue to do asymmetric model. And this tested basic model to double as follows:
1) Transfer to a piece of cardboard all basic patterns lines, including outer and inner lines for lasting.
2) Draw a straight line from the nose to the point С
After the holidays, as always, there is a lot of unfinished business. I'm working on one shoe last, well checking if it's right, and then basing on this last I want to build another one. That is by the way what I do, I construct all my last. Lack of normal production of shoe lasts in Israel (as well as all other services of the footwear industry) leaves me no choice as to construct it by myself, to achieve the desired result. Just between us, to be honest, through trial and error, I learned how to make shoe lasts. But as much as difficult as it might be, it gave me the freedom to make any type of shoes that my imagination creates and that is all I want. So at the same time I decided to show you how I make inside, solid insole pattern. It is based on the midsole pattern (link to video), but we need to add a small change to it:
1) On the inner side from point A to point B through C1 draw a smooth line.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all my readers! Let him bring joy and good luck to all of us!
I haven't written a post for a while, It was a very busy month. As always before the holidays we all possessed with shopping and I'm not an exception. All that we haven't bought during the year, we buy on sale before the New Years. So I have had a lot of orders, because shoes and diamond are girl best friends. Besides, I had an freelance project this month, that is still on the roll and therefore had no time to write.
Boat shoes model, in spite of its apparent simplicity is one of the complex shoes to make. The complexity is in precise of lines that are to be performed. It is in the crew neck, in the so-called cleavage, concentrated all the beauty of the shoes, which should emphasize the graceful curve of the foot.
Therefore, in the construction of boats all the focus on finding beautiful deep cut on the last
. When I was in Italy, I took a course conducted by boots pattern teacher, who was nicknamed the King of boats. His name was Bruno. He was already retired, but he was still invited to all the shoe factories in the area where I went to school, to make pattern of a boat for them. This wonderful teacher showed us an interesting method for constructing single cut pattern pumps with high heels. It is quite difficult to do and requires a lot of experience. I want to show and explain to you the key point of this method. How from basic pattern, requiring dividing boat patterns on two parts (the seam on the inside of the boat), to make a single cut basic pattern.
Step by step guide "Single cut pattern for high heel pumps"
Often making the correct pattern depends on how we attach it to the cardboard. It's so simple, but at the same time a critical point in the process of work on the basic pattern. But with the help of two simple cuts on patterns we can easily fix it. If we glued pattern below the desired angle, then we close it in the incision. If it turned out with a sharp angle, we will open it in the incision. To do this, you first need to find the lowest point in the pattern curve at the front of the last. It is located in the center of the intersection of a straight line drawn from the middle toe and the other a straight line drawn from the center of arc. From this point it is necessary to draw a straight line down and incise it to the middle. Then back down 2 mm and then continue to the end of a cut in a straight line down. Thus, closing the incision at the top (or, opening, depending on the need), pattern angle is reduced, and opens at the bottom at the same time. The pattern is not deformed, and is easily corrected by using these two simple cuts. And you don't have to make a new pattern with a scotch tape.
I have said many times that I wanted to make shoes as master shoemakers of the past, but that does not mean that I blindly follow the traditions of shoe making on the contrary, sometimes I break them. I like to find a shorter and easier way to achieve the result, even if it is not accepted in the footwear techniques, because I always have effective approach for solving the problem, whether it be technical or stylistic. Effective means the best for me, for shoe design. If shoes are difficult to sew, that is, its execution takes a lot of time, but that is the way I see it this constructed, for me it effectively to sew how long it will take. Therefore, no matter what, I will always find effective, in my understanding, methods. For example, very often, when I want to quickly check something and I do not have a suitable insoles for shoes, I'm doing it out of the one I have at the moment. Maybe this is not quite correct way to make an insole, but it very quickly done and I don't have to wait till the next day to go and order it on the factory. So for me it is effective at that moment, means it is right. For those who are faced with a lack of appropriate insoles in the process, this is little tutorial that will fix the problem.
I am still working on a new 2013 collection, having fun working with leather. I like its structure, its plasticity and even the smell. I especially like the moment when, fresh made shoes, are ready to go to their future owner, loudly tapping on my desk. I have one of them drying on my desk right now. In the process
Today, luckily I met a friend, shoes designer, he is old school and, of course, I pop the question. I could not get the exact springing of vamps in the pattern for men boots. And when I saw him in the parking lot, I asked how to? what am I doing wrong? He explained it to me, while leaning casually on a car, drawing on a piece of paper. I just had to move a point not on the top center of the line, just on the bottom line. Her is the video on how to do it right.
He gave a few more tips, which I will soon share on my YouTube's channel:
My Secret Skeletons & bridges shoes project and incredible designer Koji Horigome
Slow and steady wins the race. It's about me, in the sense that the slower I do things, I'm moving far away from the goal. According to the plan I had already done the following model from my project "skeletons and bridges." But I only now started to create it. Thank God that I made the pattern pretty quickly.
My first online eBook and Tracey Neuls amazing shoe lasts
Finally I made my first eBook. Initially, It took me a lot of time to decide go for it and find the time for it, especially because I wanted to include a video too. Because I wanted it to be a very detailed and understandable guide. to show how to make a quick and accurate pattern for pumps with a heel of 5 cm idea to create it. My husband gave me the idea , Because he saw that people are interested and consult with me through my YouTube's channel. Thanks to this guide I have had ideas to write other tutorial books that I'm going to do, when I'll find the time in my busy schedule. This book is available for free at my new web site www.sk-shoes.com .
Then came the fall to Israel, if it can be called that, "there is a little breeze", which replaced the unbearable heat Therefore, I was able to show off my new shoes, which I made for myself for the fall collection. This model called "Bordo" it is from my new collection.
Designer talk
Today I want to talk about one designer shoes, which I love and which I discovered to my shame recently. This is a designer from London, I'm absolutely sure that everybody on the planet, except me know her and her name is Tracey Neuls. She has two lines of shoes, one called by her name, another 29TN. Her shoes are always very concise, and at first glance it may seem simple. But this simplicity is, in my opinion, simply brilliant. She always finds a very interesting solution in design, joiningupper with sole and heel. For example, just by painting toecap and heel, covering the sole and heel.
It's so simple and beautiful. She also has wonderfully beautiful heels that are an integral part of all shoes and almost major structural ornament of her shoes. Heels resemble historic 18th century, but more delicate and are very skillful addition of uppers on the inside of the heel, or on the top of it. In this way emphasizes the plasticity of fine heel shoes and the whole shoes becomes a rounded appearance. It itself is a work of art.
But that's not all. I also like Tracy shoe lasts. They are an interesting shape and seems to be a lot of comfort. The first time I saw her shoes, the shape of shoes reminded me of the museum's 19th-century shoes, which took the form of its owner feet. That is, Tracey Neuls shoe lasts has a form used shoes, only a very stylistically overdone and skillfully shaped the design of the shoe upper.
I find it very interesting and new, and probably that's why shoes look not only beautiful, but comfortable . She is also experimenting a lot with materials and the leather, adding a custom materials to shoes.
Have a nice week and see you soon!
In this post I talk about:
1. My first e-book 2. My husband gave me the idea 2. Making a video tutorial.
3. New pic from my fall collection. 4. Designer talk with Tracey Neuls
