1) As usual paste the adhesive tape on the last and draw your Penny Loafers with tassels on the same principle as we did with loafers in the book(Penny Loafers Full Guide). Only at the point D (reference to the book) from the tongue to the sideline make round transition. Tassels and leather laces visually must continue this transition.
Showing posts with label fashion design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion design. Show all posts
Feb 5, 2013
Jan 9, 2013
Learn to Make an Insole Pattern and New Full Guide for Penny Loafer Shoes
After the holidays, as always, there is a lot of unfinished business. I'm working on one shoe last, well checking if it's right, and then basing on this last I want to build another one. That is by the way what I do, I construct all my last.
Lack of normal production of shoe lasts in Israel (as well as all other services of the footwear industry) leaves me no choice as to construct it by myself, to achieve the desired result. Just between us, to be honest, through trial and error, I learned how to make shoe lasts. But as much as difficult as it might be, it gave me the freedom to make any type of shoes that my imagination creates and that is all I want.
So at the same time I decided to show you how I make inside, solid insole pattern. It is based on the midsole pattern (link to video), but we need to add a small change to it:
Lack of normal production of shoe lasts in Israel (as well as all other services of the footwear industry) leaves me no choice as to construct it by myself, to achieve the desired result. Just between us, to be honest, through trial and error, I learned how to make shoe lasts. But as much as difficult as it might be, it gave me the freedom to make any type of shoes that my imagination creates and that is all I want.
So at the same time I decided to show you how I make inside, solid insole pattern. It is based on the midsole pattern (link to video), but we need to add a small change to it:
1) On the inner side from point A to point B through C1 draw a smooth line.
Nov 22, 2012
Single cut pattern for high heel pumps
Boat shoes model, in spite of its apparent simplicity is one of the complex shoes to make. The complexity is in precise of lines that are to be performed. It is in the crew neck, in the so-called cleavage, concentrated all the beauty of the shoes, which should emphasize the graceful curve of the foot.
Therefore, in the construction of boats all the focus on finding beautiful deep cut on the last
. When I was in Italy, I took a course conducted by boots pattern teacher, who was nicknamed the King of boats. His name was Bruno. He was already retired, but he was still invited to all the shoe factories in the area where I went to school, to make pattern of a boat for them. This wonderful teacher showed us an interesting method for constructing single cut pattern pumps with high heels. It is quite difficult to do and requires a lot of experience. I want to show and explain to you the key point of this method. How from basic pattern, requiring dividing boat patterns on two parts (the seam on the inside of the boat), to make a single cut basic pattern.
Step by step guide "Single cut pattern for high heel pumps"
Nov 10, 2012
Little Known Ways for Springing a Basic Pattern
Often making the correct pattern depends on how we attach it to the cardboard. It's so simple, but at the same time a critical point in the process of work on the basic pattern. But with the help of two simple cuts on patterns we can easily fix it. If we glued pattern below the desired angle, then we close it in the incision. If it turned out with a sharp angle, we will open it in the incision. To do this, you first need to find the lowest point in the pattern curve at the front of the last. It is located in the center of the intersection of a straight line drawn from the middle toe and the other a straight line drawn from the center of arc.
From this point it is necessary to draw a straight line down and incise it to the middle. Then back down 2 mm and then continue to the end of a cut in a straight line down. Thus, closing the incision at the top (or, opening, depending on the need), pattern angle is reduced, and opens at the bottom at the same time. The pattern is not deformed, and is easily corrected by using these two simple cuts. And you don't have to make a new pattern with a scotch tape.
From this point it is necessary to draw a straight line down and incise it to the middle. Then back down 2 mm and then continue to the end of a cut in a straight line down. Thus, closing the incision at the top (or, opening, depending on the need), pattern angle is reduced, and opens at the bottom at the same time. The pattern is not deformed, and is easily corrected by using these two simple cuts. And you don't have to make a new pattern with a scotch tape.
Oct 5, 2012
My Secret Skeletons & bridges shoes project and incredible designer Koji Horigome
My Secret Skeletons & bridges shoes project and incredible designer Koji Horigome
Slow and steady wins the race. It's about me, in the sense that the slower I do things, I'm moving far away from the goal. According to the plan I had already done the following model from my project "skeletons and bridges." But I only now started to create it. Thank God that I made the pattern pretty quickly.
Aug 13, 2012
Success in business. Do what you know
Success in business. Do what you know
If you ask me whether I see myself in 20 years only as shoes designer, then I'll say that not only that I would like to do, many other things related to design along the way will be just fine. For example, I would like also to create clothes. The thing is that my mom, like many other Soviet women in old days not being able to buy nice, quality clothes (it was not in the stores, as well as many other things), she sewed her entire wardrobe herself, and mine too. At first she designed all my clothes ,and at the age of 11 I think, I was inventing designs by myself, and my mother sewed them, tormented by my fault-finding. I remember how we quarreled with her about length of dresses, I always wanted to make shorter and narrower than my mother allowed me to. My mother sewed even my school uniform that I designed, for which I always got in trouble at the school. It had the same cinnamon-color with a black apron, but much shorter and was a completely in a different than all the other schoolgirls uniforms. I remember our long and grueling trips to the shops in search of suitable fabrics, buttons and other small things, because everything was so hard to get, until the Soviet Union collapsed and stores were flooded with goods from abroad. Since then I have drawn, perhaps, a few hundreds of clothing designs that my mother still holds, and was way ahead of fashion in those days ( I kid you not!). But, what happened, happened, and just recently I decided to try to make a collection of clothing, in addition to shoes, while not having any experience in tailoring and no technical knowledge.
I decided to make this step two years ago in the happiest and at the same time a difficult moment for me, the birth of my beloved and wonderful daughter. Perhaps that is why I was not afraid of failure, the existence of my daughter inspires and has inspired me to any exploits! But I had a distant knowledge of the mass tailoring and I repeat, absolutely no technical knowledge. Instead of taking the time to learn and practice, I ran into this thing without thinking, and as a consequence received a complete failure. Although I asked my mom to come to my aid , just for the record, my parents live in Moscow and I am in Israel. Together we glued the printed patterns , and then cut out the fabrics. I was shifting between cutting fabrics and taking care of my daughter. I even caught my husband to work, we had to cut out fabric at night, because I came up with a huge collection. That's me, I always need to have all at once, I always have to go big.
Anyway, because the patterns were all wrong and as a rocky in this business I hired a horrible, horrible tailor, and now I have a pile of cut up rolls of fabric, not just a fabric, a fabric I specially brought from Italy. Nice, right?
The conclusion is : engage only in the field that you know very well, and if you do not know and really want to, you have to spend time studying and only after much trial and error, act. This is the only positive lesson I learned from all this myself for the future. The following presented to your attention (the first time publicly) a few designs made by me in different years. What do you say?
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Feb 19, 2012
Why I love Cristóbal Balenciaga!
Why I love Cristóbal Balenciaga!
For nearly a year now, I cannot get designer Cristóbal Balenciaga out of my mind. To be completely honest, I did not know about him before that, but ever since I stumbled upon his works on the internet, I keep coming back for more.
I was amazed by his collections of clothes, especially considering the fact that his career began in the 1930s. I will not mention here facts from his biography or list his numerous contributions to modeling and fashion in general.You can look it up your selves.. Instead, I will simply try to express my fascination with him.
When thinking about his gowns, the only associations that come to mind are very poetic and colorful. The cut of his gowns is so accurate and masterfully executed, that it seems to me as they are some kind of streamlined living organisms. The lines of his designs are so vivid that they look like some sort of wet animals, and that’s why each crease and detail in the fabric is accentuated even more.
The reason I began the discussion with the cut of the clothes and not their design and it is because in Balenciaga’s case, the cut is the design . There is not a single useless detail that isn't planned to be an essential part of the cut. He is a Master of his craft not only because his creations are beautiful, but because this beauty was born out of the wish to create new dimensions in fashion while masterfully handling shapes using his unique sense of design.
Perhaps it is exactly due to his excellence as a designer and couturier that I fell in love with the Balenciaga 's works.
Some people go back to reading their favorite book or watching their favorite film in order to cheer themselves. I, on the other hand, go back to browsing Balenciaga’s works.
If uninspired or doubtful in regards to my latest design of shoes, I go back to Balenciaga's designs again and again to regenerate my spirits.
I am no expert, but in my opinion, Cristóbal Balenciaga is one of the forefathers of modern fashion design. Simply Look at the works of Galliano, McQueen or Yamamoto (also some of my favorite designers) and you will see the familiar Belenciaga lines . The silhouettes and the styles of our clothes have been created by him way back in the 1950’s!
Once again, I must say that I am in awe of his art as a designer and a couturier. I think I'd like to sign off with Balenciaga’s motto, which, I adopted and is now something I strive for: “a Couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for color, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher for temperance”.
PS: If anyone who has read this blog has any detailed information about Balenciaga that is not found on the internet, I’d be very thankful if he/she could share it with me.
Thank You.
svetakatalina@gmail.com
My website www.sk-shoes.com
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